JFK Rottweilers

Dog Anxiety

There's a certain level of anxiety in us all and it has a useful purpose at times. For me, I always get anxious at picture time and on my way to prostate exams. While I know I'll survive the process, I still seem to “pucker up” a bit in anticipation of such events.

Dogs are really not any different than us except they develop their anxieties by way of life experience or medical conditions and not as a result of media images and horror stories. Since we can't lay them on the couch and have them tell us their woes and fears, we must take an investigative approach to discovering the cause.

In the case of Muffy, it's pretty clear where and when the anxiety developed. Let's break it down a bit ...

Muffy didn't have a real healthy start as she was separated from her parents at far too young an age. I believe a puppy needs to be at least eight weeks old before being separated from its mother, siblings and initial human family. This allows them to develop a higher self-confidence level, which is necessary for them to adjust to their new family.

Additionally, she had mange. This is a very uncomfortable condition, which as the letter says, is a real pain in the rear to deal with. It often takes creams, pills, injections, blood draws and or a combination of these treatments. Kind of a hard start for the little gal.

By Carole's own admission, she spoiled her and worked diligently to make her feel loved and secure after a difficult first year of life. Based on what we know about the breeder, Carole was probably the first human to ever show Muffy any true affection and care.

Unfortunately, Carole took a very extended leave and had to leave the dog with someone else who failed to be consistent with the customs Muffy had become comfortable with. It was after this leave the new behaviors began. Now after eight years, the behavior continues.

We have two different things going on here. First, lets address the car issue. I'm betting something may have happened to Muffy in the car during Carole's absence. It could have been too cold or hot outside. She may have been left there for numerous hours. She may even have been harassed by a neighborhood kid while left unattended in the car. We just don't know for sure.

What we do know is the anxiety starts when Carole shuts off the car, and lasts until Muffy gets out with her. The best thing we can do to remedy this is change the exit routine from the car. If turning off the car is the trigger, then call her into your lap before ever touching the key and give her a little love and encouragement.

Carole may even have to open the door and allow the dog to get out next to the door before shutting it off. This will have to be done repeatedly in order to have an affect. Muffy will be distracted by the change and may initially not even realize she missed her chance to spaz.

The issue at home is caused by dominance. It stems from the absence from years ago, but I think, over time, it has become a way of obtaining attention from others in the house. I'm betting when someone else is left in the house with the dog after one of them leaves, the person remaining in the house gives the dog some sort of attention to stop the barking. If this weren't the case, the dog would bark when left alone as well.

The best thing to do for this situation is to have the person who remains in the house with the dog completely ignore the dog. It will quit barking eventually and when it does, then they can have some love. Again, the dog will learn if it wants to be loved up, it has to stop the insanity. By giving them attention when they bark we only reinforce the undesirable behavior.

Nearly all anxiety in dogs is caused by life experience and can be treated through understanding and training. I have yet to have a dog I worked with not be able to work through the anxiety and be just fine. It just takes time and patience.

I have, however, heard of cases where dogs were simply neurotic nut cases. Often this is a case of chemical imbalance in the animal or issues of extreme neglect and abuse. There are medications that have been approved by the Federal Drug Administration to help relieve canine anxiety. Basically "puppy Prozac."

These medications should only be used under the close supervision of a medical animal behavioralist, and only after all other means of relieving their anxiety have failed. I hate to see a dog doped up because the owner is too lazy to spend the extra time to work out the anxiety naturally.

Just like people, dogs can relieve anxiety through exercise and proper diet. Whenever I work with a dog suffering from excessive anxiety and fear, I always recommend a strict exercise regimen. It works for dogs for the same reason it works for people. It also is just plain ol' good for the dog.

I like the exercise to be conducted in the morning and to consist of a nice brisk walk or jog for twenty to thirty minutes. I then run the dog through his obedience paces and end with a little one-on-one love time. It doesn't hurt to repeat the process again in the evening.

You should also really look at your dog's diet. Look at your dog's food for unnecessary preservatives, colorants, and fillers. If you find your dog food filled with these things, you should look for a more natural food.

You should also eliminate any additional people foods from their diet. Many processed foods made for people are incompatible with a dog's digestive system. If they aren't feeling right, anxiety can quickly set in.

Dog anxiety can be a very trying thing to deal with. Proper nutrition, exercise and socialization to a multitude of stimulus at a young age, can be instrumental in preventing the condition and saving a heck of a lot of aggravation.

This article may be republished using the following attribution box:
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Copyright ©2003 Christopher Aust, Master Dog Trainer & Creator:
The Natural Cooperative Training System (NCTS) for Dogs
The Instinctual Development System (IDS) for Puppies

Often, when I talk to people about their dogs and their inappropriate behavior, I hear the same resounding theme. It's either, "my husband is the Alpha and I'm the Provider" or vice versa. They talk about how their dog holds the "Beta" position and tell me how consistent they are. Frequently, these same people are having behavioral problems with their dog, which often include aggression toward the "Alpha."

We've all heard trainers talk about the Alpha male role and how it applies to training. They all tend to use the general rules that apply to humans when speaking about the Alpha role. The problem with this is a family pack is very different from a family of all humans. I am not going to go on and explain Alpha roles in human families, but I am going to discuss the who, how and when the Alpha role applies to the family pack.

First, we have to remember we're talking about dogs here. Not our kids, spouse, boyfriend or in-law. They are dogs and must be treated as such. That doesn't mean we don't love them like dear family members, it means we must treat them in a manner consistent with what they are, dogs. Until such time as my dog can fix my car or reasonably hold his own in after-dinner conversation, he will ALWAYS be a dog.

In dog packs, everyone has their roles, and some hold more than one position. This is a normal and instinctual process that has served them well for thousands of years. There is a pack leader, commonly called the Alpha, however, he is not the only Alpha in the pack. He is the pack leader. There will also be a female who holds a leader position. Kind of like a king and queen.

Let me try to make this really simple.

Lets say I'm the youngest adult male in the pack and provide the sentry role, the lowest. Every other male that is older than me, and is also a sentry, is Alpha to me. As time goes on, I will work my way through the ranks and become Alpha over others through the process of natural selection or the inability of another sentry to perform his task.

Now lets say I have grown and moved to the hunter position. I am now Alpha to all the sentries but am at the bottom of the ladder as a hunter. Once again, through the process of natural selection, performance and/or another hunters' inability to perform their task, I will move up in my position within the hunters and take an Alpha role over others.

This process continues over the life of the dog and pack. Some dogs never progress past that of a sentry and are very happy with that provided they have all their instinctual needs met. Kind of like people, some are happy to sit in the mailroom and some want to be the President of the company. Nature seems to have provided a nice balance to the process and the pack thrives.

When you think about it, it's not much different than the corporate world. The ones that perform in a superior manner get recognition and move up through the ranks. Those that don't, stagnate in the same position. The difference with the dog pack is they all see their role as vital to the whole and don't necessarily worry about personal gain. I mean, hey, they don't have mortgages, car payments and credit cards to pay off. It's a group effort with everyone working for the whole rather than the individual.

Beyond that, in dog packs, it is not the high-ranking members that toss out an incorrigible out of the pack. It's the junior members that will take his position or banish him from the pack altogether. The only exception is if the junior members are unable to do so, then the pack leader will intercede. Then, the pack leader will allow the junior members of the pack to compete for the ostracized dog's position.

Pack status and position mean everything to a dog. If they are recognized for their role, and all the other pack members are doing their job, it's a cohesive environment where all can flourish and feel content with where they are. If there's a break in the cycle, it is dealt with swiftly and for the better good of the pack. No egos, just the good of the whole.

You know who I tend to see with the worst behavioral problems with their dogs? The people who tend to treat them more like humans than dogs. They allow the dog to interact in the family as an equal to all others, and forget they are dogs. This doesn't mean they don't love their dogs by any means. It does mean they're neglecting the natural instincts and learning process of their dog. As a result, the dog misbehaves.

In the family pack, the dog must always remain at the bottom of the social ladder. They must follow the commands and rules, regardless of which human family member is giving them at the time. In order for this to happen, all family members must assume Alpha roles over the dog, even if the dog primarily belongs to one family member. There should not be any bending of the rules by one family member in the absence of another.

In the letter writer's case, she has taken on the role of the loving mom who allows certain behavior to occur even though it's generally against the house rules. This puts the dog in an equal or greater pack position with the writer, as the dog is able to set his own rules of appropriate behavior. As a result a “sub-pack” has formed where the dog is ruling over one of the humans in the family pack.

To the dog, they have just assumed a position of status they are not likely to want to relinquish. They have just taken over the position of a human. Their behavior toward other humans that are not in the dog's sub-pack will now be seen as challenging since the dog will instinctually believe he can then dominate other humans in the home. This will instinctively lead the majority of dogs to inappropriate behavior, excessive barking, growling and biting.

As a result of this, all human pack members must be Alpha to the dog(s) in the family pack. All dogs in the family pack need to be treated in a way a dog knows is instinctively correct. Failure to do so is not only an invitation for inappropriate behavior, but is also an insult to the dog as well.

Next week we will discuss the common mistakes we make that allow the dog to assume a higher pack role and how to redirect our dogs' behavior if it has already occurred.

This article may be republished using the following attribution box:
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Copyright ©2004 Christopher Aust, Master Dog Trainer & Creator:
The Natural Cooperative Training System (NCTS) for Dogs
The Instinctual Development System (IDS) for Puppies
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A protective dog biter is totally different than a indiscriminate biter or fear biter. Whether it’s a favorite rug in the bathroom or in the kitchen, your pet is ready to defend himself against anyone who comes his way. If you own a protective biter, he needs training, instead of special understanding. Your dog can hurt someone before it is too late.

Don’t Run Away!

For the protective biter, his instincts are when a stranger begins to act suspiciously. It is extremely dangerous for a person who is confronted by a protective dog biter to run. Running will cause the dog to chase you and even bite you.

When training guard dogs a running “villain” is exactly the way dog training begins. Usually, many kids will make a big mistake. Kids panic, run, and then the are bitten by a dog which results in a huge lawsuit for the dog owner.

There is really no sure fire way to tell if you are being confronted by a protective dog biter so you are better off remaining calm and not running. That’s the worst thing anyone can do.
 
You cannot react suspiciously in front of a potential protective dog biter in any way.  So, simply kneel down to the ground in one knee at eye level with the dog. Then let him decide whether or not your intensions are good or bad. The worst thing to do is run.

Don’t have Fear

You should never react frightened around front of a protective dog. Your heart could be pounding like a rock band drum and your adrenalin pumping faster than ever, you should just act in a calm way and every single movement you make has to be natural as possible.

Just the same with a protective biter, certain slow and deliberate movements may also be interpreted as suspicious movements by a dog. Remember most burglars tend to act in a slow deliberate way as they begin to sneak away at night. Moving too slow can actually trigger a protective dog into becoming overly aggressive.

When you keep all your movements as natural as possible and of course constantly talking to the angry dog in a calm, friendly and happy manner, you’re showing the dog that you are confidence. You are also showing the dog that you don’t intend to harm the dog or anyone in his household such as his dog owner.  You are also demonstrating to the dog that you have nothing to hide.

 Last but certainly not least, you want to make sure you do not panic and run. You do not want to appear twitchy or fearful because this will trigger a protective bitter to aim at his target and you do not want the target to be you.

Article written by Jim Swantek of ohmydogsupplies.com

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When dogs grow older, it is normal for them to begin to lose their hearing and vision. Some young pups may have hereditary or viral infections that contribute to their loss. Dogs, more so than humans, can adjust well to the loss, even when it is the loss of both senses.

As a dog owner, you can help your dog to become acclimated to its new life without hearing or vision. As soon as you discover that your dog has lost its hearing and vision, begin teaching them new ways to respond to everyday commands. Remember that a dog’s sense of smell is still functional even though it may lose other senses and they can still recognize family members, pets and their surroundings inside and outside of the home.

Tips for caring for blind dogs include:

Maintain familiarity in the dog’s home. Do not to move furniture of other items that serve as landmarks.

• Use baby gates at the top and bottom of staircases so that the dog will not navigate unsupervised.

• Keep the dog’s food and water in the same place, so that they can find it easily.

• Use a leash for your dog when it is in an unfamiliar environment, because blind dogs still chase after animals that they smell. This will also keep your dog from running out into the street and getting hit by a vehicle.

• Alert a blind dog to your presence by talking to them before you approach them. Also, let the dog smell you before you pet them, so that they will not be startled when you touch them.

• Do not punish your blind dog if they accidentally relieve themselves in the wrong location, because the dog may have become disoriented and not be able to locate the doggy door. In addition, the dog may be losing bladder control. To circumvent this, use doggy diapers or give the dog extra time outside.

Tips for caring for deaf dogs include:

• Keep your dog on a leash if it is not in a fenced area, because it cannot hear noises, such as traffic that will alert them to hazardous conditions.

• Use hand signs along with voice commands when you first discover that your dog has lost its hearing. Teaching your dog the basic hand signs can improve communication between you and your dog. Use a stop motion of the palm of your hand at the chest to convey the “sit” command. For the “down” command, use a downward motion of the hand from the chest to the waist. Moreover, use a sideways arching motion from straight out in towards the chest for the “come” command.

• Make certain that a non hearing dog is able to see and smell you prior to petting it to prevent it from snapping, biting or barking at you.

Adhering to the above tips will help to make your blind or deaf dog more comfortable. As a loving, caring dog owner, you owe it to your dog to keep them safe and happy even when they lose their vision and hearing.

Content written by Kirk Richards of ohmydogsupplies.com

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